There are three basic foundation types and they are basement, crawl space and slab-on-grade. The different foundation techniques and there benefits will be examined here. There has been quite an upsurge in interest recently about the design as well as the construction methods of house foundations and the main reason for this has been connected to the conservation of energy, although people are becoming ever more aware of radon gas seeping into their homes.

House owners are now looking very carefully at the design of house foundations with a view to cutting costs and making a house more comfortable to live in. Many years ago, the down payment followed by the monthly payments for the mortgage installments were the most important considerations. Today however, with high energy bills and upkeep costs, the focus is beginning to shift. Homeowners not only want to be able to buy a house, they want to be able to live in it too.

The construction method used for the first foundation type, the full basement, is to dig the hole for the basement, erect forms the thickness required for the walls then pour liquid concrete into the forms. Once the concrete has dried the forms are removed and a solid insulated wall remains. This type of construction is utilized in areas where frost occurs in the ground. Using the proper insulation, a basement room can be conditioned to the extent that it can be warm enough for family activities on even the coldest days.

Another method used for basement construction utilizes concrete blocks for the walls. These blocks are usually hollow and reinforcing rods may be passed through the holes. Quite often, the holes are filled with liquid concrete. Insulating measures to guard against water seepage, radon and termite infestations should be considered.

The next foundation type is the crawl space. This is used on sloping ground or where the bedrock is fairly close to the surface making a basement foundation very expensive. The crawl space foundation is constructed by building a low cinder block wall the shape of the house on a concrete plinth, just wider than the wall, which is then faced with bricks. There is no slab to lay as the floor joists are attached to the wall and the interior of the wall is left as soil. The walls are built on top of the flooring timbers.

This type of construction makes it easy to run plumbing and electrical wiring under the house. It also simplifies maintenance and the relocation of these services if required, thereby cutting costs. The space under the house may be used for storage if certain steps are taken to keep out the elements and to protect the stored articles from termites.

The last foundation type is the slab-on-grade which is often utilized where the depth of a water table is less than 8 feet of the ground surface. The major components of this type are the slab itself with grade beams or footings around the edges making the slab thicker at its perimeter. The slab and the supporting walls are poured from liquid concrete and the floor is designed to be strong enough to support varied loads when poured onto compacted or bare soil without reinforcing.

The type of foundation chosen will depend on various factors, such as cost, aesthetics and the expectations of the buyer who will in many cases be interested in the different foundation techniques and there benefits.

Gun Safe Accessories; Dehumidifier why you need one!
Youve taken the financial plunge and have finally invested in a gun safe to give you that piece of mind you are looking for but are there options for your safe that your local safe retailer has not told you about ? Or worse yet did you purchase your safe at a box store and had no idea that you need some sort of dehumidification device.
Dehumidification; you can achieve this with an electric dehumidifying rod or a silica gel pack. But why do you need these? Whenever you have an installed box, like a safe, the air inside the box does not circulate. When the air becomes stagnate it settles and the moisture particles that were in the air settle on your paper work, firearms, jewelry, etc etc. This moisture build up causes rust, mold, mildew. How do they work? Electronic dehumidifiers , heat up to the touch and in turn this heat creates a slight circulation of air in the safe, this circulation does not let the moisture particles settle but rather keeps them suspended in the air inside the safe. On the other side of the coin you have Silica Packs, are just that silica, lots of it, think of those little packs of stuff that say do not eat that you get in beef jerky and boxes of shoes. Essentially the silica sucks the moisture up getting rid of the moisture completely.
Which one is right for you? When I purchased my first safe from a local office supply store I was unaware of moisture issues, needless to say my safe ended up rusting so bad that it was a bear to open. However, there are differences in safes fire protection causing differences in moisture released into the safe. Gun Safes, like Liberty, Champion, Fort Knox, use sheetrock as their fire insulation material and have pre-drilled holes for electric dehumidifiers. On the flip side of the coin many of the home fire safes you find at your local retailers use concrete for their insulation. Concrete creates exponentially more moisture then a dry fire lined safe. In addition, most concrete safes are not drilled for running the cord from your electric dehumidifier to an outlet; in this case a silica gel pack will be needed.

Ease of Use: Electric Dehumidifier, they stay plugged in and work 24/7 as opposed to Silica packs which need to be recharged or put in the oven to bake out the moisture when they are saturated.
Cost : Silica Packs tend to be slightly cheaper.
Effectiveness: Electric Dehumidifier, and the only I reason I say this is because most people who have silica packs do not re-charge them when they are saturated, which in turn renders them useless.
Warranty: Electric Dehumidifier, companies like goldenrod offer a lifetime guarantee, whereas silica packs like eva-dry only offer a 5 year warranty.
Overall: Electric Dehumidifier with the win, do yourself a favor and invest in one you will be happy that you did.

No one wants a termite infestation to hit their home, but if you are not careful you might actually be attracting the pests. If you have a crawl space to allow for access to your home's foundation, you could have an environment that's ideal for termite colonies to live in and thrive. Luckily, this is a problem that can be easily taken care of once you realize the aspects of your crawl space that are likely to attract termites. If it's too late and you already have termites under your house, take comfort in the fact that you've found them while they are still in the crawl space and not after they have moved up into walls or other parts of the house.

The reason that termites are attracted to your crawl space is that in most cases a crawl space provides an ideal environment for them. Think about what your crawl space looks like. Does it have poor ventilation, lots of exposed wood, and plenty of scattered bits of wood on the dirt itself that has dried out over the years? The poor ventilation will result in the crawl space having higher humidity than the air outside, which is needed by termites to live. They will be initially attracted by this excess moisture, and then realize that there is a large amount of cellulose and wood material for them to eat. Even though you obviously did not want it to be, your crawl space could appear to them like an all-you-can-eat buffet in paradise.

Assessing Your Crawl Space

Chances are that you do not spend much time in your crawl space. It's dark, cramped, and the air is probably a bit musty. Unfortunately, if you are going to check for termites (and to check whether the conditions in your crawl space are likely to attract termites) then you are going to have to head under the house. Be sure to watch out for other insects and animals under there as well; while some of these, such as spiders, can be helpful and will actually kill and eat termites that might be in your crawl space, this doesn't mean that you want them in your hair or face. Take the necessary precautions to avoid bites before going under your house.

Once there, see if the air is musty or smells like mildew. This will indicate that there is excessive moisture in the air, which is one of the key elements that will attract termites. Much preferable is for the air to smell dry or dusty, though in this case you will need to check and make sure that any wood in the support of your house isn't becoming overly dry. While under the house, you should also take the time to look at the wood and house supports themselves for any indications of termite activity. See if there is any wood or plant material on the ground, especially next to the walls of the house where it might draw in termites from outside.

Preventing Termite Infestations

After you have evaluated how much moisture and loose plant material are under your house, it's time to do something about it. One of the first steps that you can take is to hire waterproofing experts to come in and seal all of the walls of your crawl space and provide complete cover so that there isn't just open dirt under your house. This will close off most of the access points for termites, and will greatly reduce additional moisture from getting in. Many waterproofing experts will also clean up any loose debris in the process to further prevent termites from being attracted to your home.

You can choose to have the crawl space completely sealed so as to prevent airflow as well, though a more common solution is to make sure that your crawl space has enough ventilation so that excess moisture doesn't build up in the air. Just remember that any vents in your crawl space need to be sufficiently above the ground so that water won't enter them when it rains, and you should avoid having any plants or plant material blocking them or touching them because that is a good way for termites to find their way in.

Treating Termite Outbreaks

Should you find that you already have termites in your crawl space, you should call your preferred pest control expert or exterminator immediately. They can spray the outer perimeter of your house in order to prevent additional termites from coming in as well as using foggers or other sprays to kill all of the termites that have already made it into your crawl space. While at your home, they will also evaluate it to make sure that your termite problems have not spread elsewhere.

Bathroom and kitchen fans are an important part of your home's ventilation system. They remove odours from your house, which improves indoor air quality. They also remove moisture, which decreases the level of humidity in your house. High humidity can damage building materials and can cause mold growth. Mold may affect your family's health.

Common Fan and Exhaust Systems

The two most common types of fans are impeller fans and blower fans.

Impeller fans move air with blades similar to airplane propellers.

Blower fans look like hamster wheels they are often called squirrel cages and generally do a better job of moving air than impeller fans.

Most exhaust systems consist of an exhaust fan, ducting and an exterior hood. Some houses have a central exhaust system, in which one fan draws moisture and odours from several rooms of the house using a network of ducts.

Kitchen exhaust systems usually have the fan and fan motor in the exhaust hood. Other systems use an in-line fan, which is in the exhaust duct, or a fan outside the house. In-line and outdoor exhaust fans are usually quieter than systems with the fan in the room.

A heat recovery ventilator (HRV) also exhausts moisture and odours. An HRV is a self-contained ventilation system that provides balanced air intake and exhaust. Like a central exhaust fan, it can be connected to several rooms by ducting.

How Good Is the Fan I Have Now?

CMHC's research shows that many houses have exhaust fans that:

are too noisy
move very little air
are not energy efficient
may cause backdrafting of combustion appliances
use high-wattage lighting
Are There Better Fans?

Yes. There's a new generation of effective, quiet, energy-efficient exhaust fans and controls.

How Do I Choose the Best System?

First, choose the quietest, most energy-efficient fan in the size range required. Most fan labels have Home Ventilating Institute (HVI) ratings so you can compare noise and energy efficiency. Look for a fan with replaceable parts and permanent lubrication. A fan suitable for continuous use is preferable. Be prepared to pay more for a quality fan.

Second, select low-resistance (smooth) exhaust ducting. Seal the joints and insulate sections that run through unheated spaces.

Third, place the exhaust hood where it will not cause moisture damage on exterior surfaces.

Fourth, if you have heating appliances with chimneys, make sure that fans won't cause the appliances to backdraft.

Fifth, install the proper controls.

Bathroom Fans: What Should I Look For?

Fan exhaust capacity is rated in litres per second (L/s) or cubic feet per minute (cfm). A normal bathroom needs a good-quality fan that draws 25 L/s (50 cfm). A poor-quality fan won't exhaust enough air and will be too noisy for regular use. The best fans have sound ratings of 0.5 sones or less and consume about 20 watts. Older units typically run up to 4 sones and 80 watts.

Large bathrooms, or those with bigger fixtures, such as spas, need larger fans. Place the bathroom fan as close as possible to the source of moisture or odour. For in-line fans, as long as the intake grille is properly located, the fan itself does not have to be close to the bathroom. Some bathroom fans have lights or heating lamps. If you choose a fan with integrated lights, look for efficiency. Any fan installed in an insulated ceiling for instance, if the attic is above the bathroom ceiling must not leak air and must be rated for use under insulation.

Make sure that exhaust fans, lights and heaters in bath or shower enclosures are rated and approved for wet conditions. Newer units approved for wet conditions may include ground fault protection.

Noise

Noise determines whether people use a fan. Many people wont use a noisy fan. Select the quietest fan in the size you need. Look for fans labelled low noise or quiet, and check for the HVI rating. If it is not rated, there is a good chance that it will be noisy. In-line fans, due to their potential remote mounting, can also be very quiet.

Fan Power Requirements and Airflows

There is more to energy efficiency than selecting an energy-efficient fan. Ducting can affect fan performance. Uninsulated, undersized, or droopy flex ducting, ineffective or dirty backdraft dampers and exhaust louvers can cut rated airflow by more than 50 per cent.

To find out if your exhaust fan is drawing air, hold a piece of toilet tissue up to the grille. The exhaust air should hold the tissue tightly to the grille. You could also check the outlet to make sure the air is leaving your house. CMHC has developed a simple test to measure flow and published it as an About Your House fact sheet titled CMHC Garbage Bag Airflow Test.

Controls

Bathroom fans connected to light switches start running when the light is turned on. Often, users turn the light off before all the moisture is exhausted after a bath or shower. An electronic timer, which is usually quieter than a mechanical timer, offers a wide range of settings. Make sure the time instructions are easy-to-understand and the timer is easy to use. You can use motion or humidity sensors, or a combination of both, to control the fan. Controls which allow you to specify operating times or maximum humidity levels are preferable to those where the operation is pre-set by the manufacturer. Use a delayed fan shut-off to keep the fan running for 15 minutes after you leave the room.

Cleaning

Fans create static electricity which attracts dirt like a magnet to the fan and its housing. The dirt can encourage mold growth and restrict air movement. Clean fans, housings, backdraft dampers and exterior flaps seasonally. A typical bathroom fan can be cleaned by pulling down the grille, and unplugging and removing the fan module. Fans in ducts and exterior fans may be difficult to clean.

Kitchen Range Hoods

A kitchen range hood must move more air than a bathroom fan about 50 to 140 L/s (100 to 300 cfm). As a result, they are noisier, with the lowest sound rating of about 4.5 sones, although they can be relatively quiet on low speed.

The most useful units have a low noise rating, an energy-efficient fan, fluorescent lights, sound insulation, anti-vibration mounts and duct connections. For heavy duty use, select non-corrosive materials such as aluminum or stainless steel. High quality hoods may have heat sensors and a safety shut-off.

Kitchen exhaust systems should discharge outdoors. Recirculating range hoods rely on filters to capture some odours and grease. The filters are generally made of carbon which must be replaced frequently to be effective. Grease will coat carbon, making it ineffective. With recirculating fans, cooking moisture and odours will usually remain in the house.

Positioning

Range hoods are most effective when they extend out over the stove surface and are close to the stove top. Island units are less effective than wall units.

Cleaning

Range hoods usually have washable, aluminum-mesh grease filters. Better quality filters have a smaller diameter mesh over a larger surface area and can be cleaned in the dishwasher. Clean or replace grease traps and filters frequently. There are now range hoods available that allow you to remove the fan, but not the motor, for cleaning in a dishwasher.

Fire

There is always the possibility of a grease fire with a kitchen range hood exhaust. Smooth metal ducting, preferably galvanized steel, is safer in a fire than lighter assemblies.

Installation

Install fans and exhaust systems so they make the least possible noise, vibrate as little as possible and leak as little air as possible.

Anti-vibration pads or foam tape can isolate the fan housing from wood joists and drywall. You can wrap fan housings and some duct sections in rubber or vinyl noise barrier mats.

Ducts

Install exhaust systems according to the building code and manufacturer's recommendations. Straight, short duct runs, with few turns, will result in the highest fan flow.

For bathroom fans, use duct with a diameter of at least 100 mm (4 in.). For long runs, use larger, 150 mm (6 in.) diameter duct to improve airflow. It is usually best to avoid fans with 75 mm (3 in.) exhaust ports and ducts. Follow manufacturer's instructions for kitchen exhaust duct sizes.

Seal all duct joints and connections with aluminum duct tape or duct mastic (available at contractors' supply shops) to prevent air, moisture and noise leakage. Standard cloth duct tapes tend to dry out and fall off.

Seal and then insulate all ductwork running through unheated areas to avoid moisture problems. The best practice is to slant horizontal runs of duct down toward the exterior outlet to drain any condensation outside.

Exhaust air should not be released into the attic, into a wall or ceiling cavity, crawl space, basement or in the roof soffit. These locations can promote condensation damage and mold growth.

Weather Hoods, Grilles and Backdraft Dampers

Even when fans are off, stack effects and wind loads may cause outside air to enter or inside air to exhaust through fan ducting. Fans are equipped with backdraft dampers, usually in the fan box exhaust port. Check damper flaps from time to time to make sure they are clean and working. The exterior exhaust flap or louvers should be clean and in good repair to maintain unobstructed airflow and reduce air infiltration. Most exhaust ducts are fitted with a single flap exhaust hood or triple louver aluminum or plastic exhaust grille. Use weather hoods that lie flat on the wall in driveways and other places where hood-type units could be damaged.

Plastic hoods break down over time and need to be replaced. Clean exhaust hoods of lint and nesting materials seasonally to ensure that the flap or louvers are not blocked or stuck open.

Some Dangers

Chimney Connections

Some older bathrooms have static exhausts which look like upside down funnels on the ceiling. If these exhausts are hooked into the furnace chimney, disconnect them from the chimney, seal the hole in the chimney with hydraulic (expanding) cement, and install a new powered exhaust. If these static exhausts go directly outside, they can still be used, but a good fan will be more energy efficient and less drafty.

High Capacity Systems

High capacity, industrial or oversized exhaust fans, and range-top barbecue fans can cause chimney backdrafting. Backdrafting occurs when air is drawn down the chimneys, bringing dangerous combustion exhaust gases into the house. Avoid backdrafting by selecting sealed combustion heating appliances. If you have appliances with chimneys in your house, and you wish to install high capacity exhaust fans, you will need a matching supply air fan to balance house pressures.

Many ventilation contractors or salespeople are unaware of the effects of large exhaust fans on other house appliances. Make sure that your system is properly installed with supply air. At the very least, make sure that you have smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors to warn you if you have severe chimney backdrafting.

http://www.knock-knock.ca

A flood disrupts your regular scheme of things. After all, it is not at all a pleasant sight to watch your things float around the room. Prolonged exposure to water causes a lot of damage to your furniture. It also damages important papers and documents that come into its contact. Stagnant water in your homes also poses a threat to the lives of the occupants. There are chances of short circuit and electrocution. In such a scenario, emphasis should be given to immediate water removal.

It is best to hire water removal specialists for the purpose as it involves a step-by-step process. It demands a full proof process so that there is not much structural damage to your property. The water removal professionals, employed for this purpose, not only flush out the standing water but also 'dry, dehumidify, disinfect and deodorize' the affected areas. Different treatments need to be administered for different parts of the house like walls and floors and that can only be offered by water removal specialists. Some of them offer round the clock services and you can give them a call at any time of the day.

The process of water removal is simplified by the use of specialized equipments. These include hygrometers, moisture detectors, pumps and portable extraction units. Moisture detectors and hygrometers are used to determine the limit of moisture saturation. There are specific processes that are initiated only after confirming that the area is low in moisture content. The portable extraction units can access any far-flung area as they are mounted on trucks. They are extremely effective for pumping out water. Gas powered and submersible pumps are used in areas where there is high level of standing water.

The next step in water removal process is drying of the affected areas. Specialized equipments are used for this step as well. Dehumidifiers are used to lower the humidity level. By making the air dry, it minimizes the damage to the contents of the room. It reduces the temperature and humidity level and thus prevents the warping and swelling of furniture, floors and walls. Air movers cause the air to blow at jet speed and that helps in evaporating the moisture from carpets, furniture, pads and walls.

The final couple of steps of the water removal process include disinfecting and deodorizing. Disinfection is absolutely necessary as stagnant water is highly contaminated and serves as a breeding ground for fungi, mildew, bacteria and various other microorganisms. It is necessary to ensure that contaminated water does not come into contact with fresh water, meant for consumption, as it can cause several diseases. Disinfection followed by deodorization helps in removing odor that develops as a result of the growth of microorganisms.

Water removal process should be initiated as quickly as possibly. Stagnant water does not only affect the interiors but also causes structural damage. However, there is no need to panic, as water removal specialists will take care of the flood situation at your place.

Vapor Barrier Basics

What is a Vapor Barrier?

A vapor barrier is material that prevents any type of gas from passing through it. There are various strengths of vapor barriers and the most effective ones allow no gases (vapor and heat) to penetrate while less effective barriers can leak like a sieve - allowing almost any types of gas to pass through into your home. The metric used to rate these materials is permeability, with 0.000 permeability being the best.

Actual vapor barriers are usually made out of some sort of material like aluminum or plastic which will normally not allow any gasses to pass through. More commonly you will find vapor retarders, however, which are not technically impermeable, and will allow small amounts of gas to pass through them. However, these amounts are normally negligible.

Why Use a Crawl Space Vapor Barrier?

The soil under your home is constantly emitting water vapor into the atmosphere. Under normal conditions, the vapor will dissipate quickly into the atmosphere. But water vapor can become trapped under the crawl space of your house and cause problems with your sub-floor construction, especially if you live in an area that receives high moisture levels yearly. And even arid areas have their wet seasons during which your home could be vulberable to ground water vapor and condensation problems. Most houses with crawl spaces will also have some sort of crawl space ventilation, but these are highly inefficient and are often not enough to stop water vapor from condensing on wood structural parts of your house, which will eventually cause wood-rot and diminish the value and overall structural stability of your house. A crawl space barrier is an effective tool in combating mildew, mold and wood-rot.

Crawl space vapor barriers can improve your home's energy usage in two ways: by insulating your home from heat and cold and weatherizing your home against the elements. Just like the insulation in your walls improve your home's energy efficiency, insulation in your crawl space will prevent the outside air from penetrating through the floorboards in your home. Weatherizing your crawl space stops convective energy (air) from entering your crawl space - just like leaving a window cracked open, small cracks beneath your home can let in air through your floor boards. A high-performance vapor barrier can almost completely eliminate any ground water vapor from seeping into the open space under your home and through your floor boards into your house.

A vapor barrier can also be a valuable tool for homes that have concrete slab construction, with no open area or craw space beneath the house. Water vapor can condense on the slab of your house and eventually make its way through the concrete and into parts of your home more sensitive to condensation and water issues. It is a good idea to install a water-vapor barrier underneath your home's concrete slab in order to insure that water-vapor and condensation are not a problem.

In addition to protecting your home from outside forces which may reduce the value of your home, a crawl space vapor barrier can also help you save on energy costs. In cold climates, using a vapor barrier in addition to regular insulation can make your house more airtight and help keep warm air from escaping outside. Similarly, in a hot climate, the barrier can help keep your electric bill lower, by not allowing cool air to escape through your crawlspace to the outside.

A crawl space vapor barrier can be an effective tool in the life of your home, boosting longevity of sensitive materials, as well as boosting the energy efficiency of your home.

The first portable dehumidifier on the market, weighing less than half that of other models. It has built-in wheels and a carrying handle, allowing it to be transported with little effort. With 40 pint large capacity front removable water bucket.

Technical Details

-40-pint dehumidifier with removable reservoir tank; optional continuous-drainage port
-Full-bucket indicator alarm; automatic shut-off prevents overflow; washable air filter
-Adjustable humidistat; whisper-quiet operation; automatic defrost
-Built-in wheels and carrying handle provides easy portability
-Measures 14-1/2 by 10-1/4 by 21 inches (WxDxH); backed by 1-year warranty

Customer reviews

"Great performance and QUIET, with some caveats" 2010-05-20
By B. Edwards
We have a split level house, with the bottom floor (finished) being at or below grade in some places, so it's constantly humid down there.

I bought a GE dehumidifier when we moved in, but unfortunately we also use that floor/room for the TV room, and the GE unit (bought at Lowe's I think) was LOUD, BIG and UGLY. Worked great, however due to noise (rattled like crazy in addition to high noise level of condenser/fan) and lack of any kind of aesthetic consideration, was just a terrible choice for a main living area.

Eventually I sold it and decided to try out the Soleus Air since I had seen that it was designed to be quiet AND it looked like something I could be ok with in the living room, design-wise.

Turns out that it is indeed quiet, even on the high setting. Certainly not loud and rattly like the old GE unit, which required you to turn it off any time you wanted to watch TV, listen to music, or even have a conversation without yelling.

Also, works pretty well, as I have a hygrometer downstairs to monitor the relative humidity.

Overall, highly recommended with the following caveats:

CONS:

- expensive relative to other dehumidifiers in this performance class (unless you count noise level as performance)

- Runs CONTINUOUSLY! This could be a biggie for the more energy conscious. The GE I had ONLY came on when the RH went above a certain level. Well Soleus takes a different approach and has the unit to ALWAYS run....the only difference is that when the RH rises above the range set, the condenser kicks in...otherwise, just the fan is running (and fwiw, you can hardly tell the difference in noise level between the times when just the fan is running, versus fan + condenser running). I wish I had known about this aspect, because I really don't want to run the thing all the time, and at least with the GE, you got some periods of complete quiet. Although this unit IS quiet at all running levels, it's still not silent, so there is the noise issue.

- Settings are ridiculously high (in terms of RH %). This is probably the biggest drawback of this unit imo. There are only three settings on the unit for humidity levels, and the LOWEST only gets you to 50%! I think the other ones put the RH at 65 and maybe 75%...which just seems crazy humid to me. WTH. So if you want to reduce the RH to something BELOW 50%, you need to set the unit to run the condenser continuously, which is not something I want to do.

- Pull out water tray is awful as mine "sticks" and I have many times sloshed water all over my hw floors because of it. I think the problem is the tray/reservoir is fully made from plastic, so it gives and flexes a lot when full of water...this creates pressure and resistance when you try to pull it out. The much stiffer GE tray never had this problem BUT it also was the source of the mind numbing rattle. This could easily be improved with a little better design, or maybe by using less flexible plastic.

PROS:

- Looks great, by far best looking dehumidifier if you plan on putting this in a visible living space.
- QUIET. By far most quiet dehumidifier I have heard.
- Works great ...even though it's quiet, it seems to pull as much moisture out as my old unit.
- Small and portable - if you need to transport it, it has a handle

I would probably give this 3.5 stars if I could, primarily because of the ridiculously high RH settings, and the continuous running. But I haven't seen anything better on the market, so for now, I would still recommend it to someone in the market for one to put INSIDE a house (as opposed to an unfinished basement area).

Though you may not always think about it, being able to get cheap dehumidifiers can be prized if you live in the right climate in the right time of year. Cheap dehumidifiers can help you as a stop-gap way to add comfort to your home when the climate is overly humid. This is especially true in the summer months in the Midwestern and southern parts of the United States. When temperatures rise with humidity, being able to lower the moisture in the air can significantly add to your comfort. So where do you find cheap dehumidifiers? The best place to start, as with many things these days, is on the Internet. Go to your favorite search engine and look for a place that sells discount dehumidifiers. In many cases you can get them delvered overnight or at least rushed to you so that you can use them right away. If you are looking at cheap dehumidifiers, you are probably in a situation where you want them fast so where better to look than online. There are 2 other classic ways of buying cheap dehumidifiers. One is to wait until they are out of season because that way demand for them falls and retailers are desperate to make sales. The other way is to buy them a month or two after thanks giving or christmas in the sales. You can pick up some real bargains at this time of year and have your device ready to be unleashed when the weather changes. So as you can see there are various ways to pick up those bargains you just need to use your head. If you are not the shopping type then the internet is your option and if you like to get out and about and actually see the items your are buying then by all means go out and visit some specialist stores and have a look around. You will probably find that you can get some real advice talking to a sale person weigh up your options and then come back to the internet when you have a few models in mind. That way you get the best of both worlds. Remeber that the word "dehumidifier" doesn't have to suddenly conjur up huge machines that cost thousands to buy and run, they can be as cheap as , and with modern technology every person should be able to find one that is affordable and well within their price range.About the author Mayoor Patel is the writer for the website http://www.dehumidfiers.wares-are.us/. Please visit for information on all things concerned with Cheap Dehumidifiers Source: http://www.articlesalley.com/article.detail.php/46575/216/Accessories/Home/27/How_to_Find_Cheap_Dehumidifiers_on_the_Internet

Damp and mold in your household does not just wreck carpets and walls, but if you are not very careful can enormously damage your health. If you are noticing paint on your walls flaking or perhaps your wallpaper appears to be there is a bubble behind it or any wood furnishing is beginning to warp, they are signs you've got a damp problem.Additionally, you will discover that familiar smell of must which comes when your home is not ventilated correctly. This is actually the odor of damp!

This article provides you with all of the signs you'll need in case you have damp in your home which inturn can result in terrible health issues. Many a wise individual tells me that you could have all the cash in the world, but it's irrelevant without your wellbeing, so be wary of that.

Normally, excess moisture in the air is caused by insufficient ventilation. The appearance of mould within your bathroom is something you'd have already noticed. The reason behind this is lack of ventilation in the bathroom, in that somebody will take a shower and not open any windows when doing so and as a consequence there becomes a build up of moisture because it can not escape. This produces a terrible ecosystem where bacteria will spread leading to dust mites.How can you avoid this? Simply open your windows after showering! You should always keep your home at a level of humidity you are happy with. If you do not, mildew and mould will take over your home which will result in dust mites, Mould will wreck other rooms in your home if left to its own devices. It's quite common for mould to grow on home furniture, carpets, rugs and curtains.Spores will develop from untreated mould as it's part of the fungus family and if this happens can seriously affect your health and that of your pets. That common damp smell means you've got fungus growing your house, and the very best and most competent way of eliminating this is utilizing a dehumidifier.Precisely what are the health dangers of getting high humidity and mould in your house?Your lungs are the first part of your body that will be afflicted by excess humidity and damp. Symptoms include things like coughing, dry throat and wheezing. Any asthma sufferers should be especially careful if there's damp in their home. Respiratory infections and asthma are triggered due to excess mould and damp in homes.

Excess damp can also bring about symptoms which we would associate with the common cold. For example, headaches, runny nose, puffy eyes. If you don't deal with your damp issue, the symptoms can actually lead to developing the flu. The reason this takes place is usually that the growth of mould results in dust mites which a large amount of people are sensitive to.Before it gets too late, here are some tips on how you can stop the spread of dust mites that contribute to health risks. It is not really rocket science, merely stick to some of the recommendations:

Never dry your laundry indoors without the necessary ventilation. Put simply, should you choose this, open windows.If you're taking a bath or shower, open your windows to get rid of the steam build up. This is such a general problem that explains why mould grows in bathrooms and just a simple way to prevent it.

In case you have a space that is particularly bad, invest in a dehumidifier. This can sort your condition out quickly and effectively. To eliminate any mould quickly, just use some detergent.Mould is simple to get rid of so there is no need to worry! If you do what I talk about in this posting you will continue to dwell in a beautifully smelling house without any sign of damp, mould or dust mites!

Keeping a basement dry is a challenge. Some homeowners never have a problem with basement moisture or outright leaks while others live in areas of the country that are prone to basement problems. A finished basement is an investment worth protecting and there are several ways to do it. Basement waterproofing in Illinois includes several of the approaches commonly used throughout the rest of the Midwest.

One of the most common is the use of dehumidifiers to remove moisture from the air. A dehumidifier is a simple way to combat mildew, mold and the musty smells common in basements that have a moisture problem by drying the environment. The manufacturer's recommendations for the effective range of a dehumidifier will determine how many units should be spread throughout the basement. Don't make the mistake of thinking that just one dehumidifier will cover several hundred square feet of basement effectively.

Another way to correct a moist basement problem is to use specially formulated sealer and paint that will prevent moisture from seeping through. This works if the basement walls are solid and more severe leakage problems don't exist. The coating on the wall serves as a barrier. It prevent the condensation of water droplets and subsequent evaporation and high humidity that they cause.

Folks with basement foundation cracks have found that it may take a professional to repair them. Water builds up outside of the walls and as the ground naturally expands and contracts the walls begin to move ever so slightly. At some point a crack in the concrete wall develops and allows water a way into the basement. Small cracks can sometimes be repaired with sealant made for the purpose but if the damage is extensive and the walls are moving it will take a more advanced form of repair.

Supports can be installed to prevent wall movement and a system of moving the water from the exterior of the basement foundation installed. This is major surgery as far as basement moisture repair is concerned but it can prevent the eventual need to replace the entire wall. Cracking in the basement wall can sometimes be traced back to bad gutters and the resulting poor rainwater drainage. If that's the cause repairing the gutters will make all the difference in the world.

Sump pumps are what most homeowners think of when the subject of basement moisture is discussed. Sump pump systems funnel water into basins and then pump it out of the house. The system gets a real workout during heavy storms that saturate the ground against the basement walls. Battery backup protection for sump pumps is a great idea.

A power outage in a storm can mean the pump won't work and the water in the basin can overflow into the basement. The battery keeps the pump working even when the power goes out. Reliable basement repair companies offer homeowners several ways to prevent or repair basement moisture problems. There are many effective ways to keep a basement dry and comfortable.