Crawl Spaces

How Water Can Attract Termites To Your Home
Termites are a concern for homeowners in every state except Alaska. These destructive insects can slowly destroy the structure of a home, eating the very wood it's made of and inflicting serious damage that can run into the tens of thousands of dollars, sometimes even requiring the destruction of the structure if the termites are allowed to stay unchecked. While termite eradication can be expensive, a few simple precautions can help prevent this; many of the typical preventive measures involve reducing or eliminating moisture and water near the foundations of the house.
The most common types of termites are the Formosan termite and the Eastern subterranean termite. Formosan termites, found chiefly in the Southern US, are subterranean termites that may nest either in the soil or in the wood of a structure. The brown reproductive termites swarm in the evening during May to July. Colonies of Formosan termites are large, with up to 5 million individuals. Therefore, they destroy wood faster than the Eastern subterranean termite. The more widespread Eastern subterranean termites live in smaller colonies and therefore tend to take longer to inflict damage. During the spring, the reproductives swarm and leave the colony. The reproductives are black and have a thick waist, their antennae are straight and both pairs of wings are the same length. These termites feed on wood, but nest in the soil, constructing mud tubes from their nests to the wood in structures.
Both of these varieties of termites depend on moisture for their sustenance, and build their nests in areas that have abundant moisture for their building and nourishment means. The pencil shaped tubes that they use to climb from the soil into the structure of a house are made of mud and must be kept moist, so eliminating excess moisture is crucial for termite prevention.
The first measure to implement is to remove any direct contact between structural or decorative wood and the ground. Any wood in contact with the earth tends to soak in moisture and become a magnet for the insects. Overhangs, decorative lattice work (typically used under porches and decks, and over the openings to crawl spaces), and support posts should be cut loose from the ground or given some kind of concrete footing, so that wood that has become moist from rain or run off does not attract termites.
Reducing and eliminating the water in the ground directly around the foundation is the next critical step. Putting in a slope to allow water to flow out from the house is crucial; homeowners should also consider the possibility of adding a concrete skirt around the foundation. Gutters and downspouts should be kept on good repair and adjusted to direct water as far out from the foundation as possible, and sources of dripping water such as air conditioners should be set up so that any standing puddles are eliminated. Splash blocks (which disperse water when it strikes the surface) are useful for this purpose.
While many homeowners use mulch, ground cover, and various forms of pea stone and gravel around their foundations for its beauty and practicality, these are an open invitation to termites. All of these substances serve to trap moisture and water under the surface, providing an ideal medium for termites. Mulch itself is not particularly attractive as a food substance to termites, but it holds water that attracts them. Contrary to popular belief, stone and gravel covers hold as much water under the ground as mulch, so this is not a useful alternative. If gravel or crushed stones are used, the cover should be no more than 2-3 inches deep, and there should be no contact between the gravel and the siding or wood components of the house.
Crawl spaces are prime staging ground for termites. Most building codes call for 1 square foot of vent opening per 150 square feet of crawlspace area. Moisture in crawl spaces can further be reduced by installing 4-6 ml polyethylene sheeting over about 75 percent of the soil surface. This cover will act as a barrier to evaporation from the soil and help prevent condensation of moisture on joists and sub flooring. If a crawlspace has a polyethylene vapor barrier, the total vent area often can be reduced to 1 square foot per 300 to 500 square feet of crawlspace area. There should be one vent within 3 feet of each exterior corner of the building. As with gutters and downspouts, vents should be kept free of leaves, dirt, and other debris, and should not be obstructed by vegetation. Although a homeowner can install these barriers themselves, it is not an easy job, and such vents and vapor barriers can be installed by most pest control companies.

November 11th, 2011 at 4:18 am
dehumidifing products to obsorb moisture in crawl spaces?
is there a product that you can hang in crawl spaces to obsorb the moisture from the crawl space?i was told damp dry is a possiblitiy?
November 11th, 2011 at 9:34 am
Mice problem in Seattle area homes crawl spaces?
I am planning to buy a nice house in Redmond Ridge (Greater Seattle area). During the inspection, the inspector found mice activity in the crawl space under the house. I am afraid this can get out of control and destroy the ducting and the crawl space insulation and that the mice can potentially enter into the house itself. My realtor says it is a common problem and can be put under control by using regular pest control.
Is there anyone who can say it is a common problem in Seattle area? Please answer ASAP. I need to make my decision soon.
November 11th, 2011 at 2:14 pm
How can foundations with crawl spaces be termite protected before building without pesticides ?
November 11th, 2011 at 2:57 pm
How can I get rid of “critters” crawling in my under house crawl spaces?
Can I scare them away? I’ve plugged some obvious holes in the foundation. What would repel them? What would make my crawl space undesireable? The colder weather seems to attract them to my home.
November 11th, 2011 at 5:20 pm
Yes, there are metal shields used under the sill plates and treated lumber to use.
November 11th, 2011 at 11:00 pm
how to deter black widow spiders from crawl spaces/attics – do mothballs work?
also heard chestnuts have some effect on turning spiders away
November 11th, 2011 at 11:21 pm
Get ortho home defense and spray inside/outside perimeter of your home… It kills all bugs…It’s guaranteed for 12 months…
November 12th, 2011 at 2:34 am
It may be a common problem but you do not have to live with it? No.
When buying a home, you get an inspection to help you evaluate the homes condition and what needs to be taken care of before it transfers to you. Mouse problems is a big problem. They are hard to get rid of and they multiply. It they are in the craw space they can get in the house if they are not already. If the home is vacant you wont see the signs of mice.
Mice are troublesome for wiring, insulation, and your health.
They can even have fleas and the Viruses that affect your health.
You need to tell your Realtor to illiminate the problem before you close the deal. You will not sign papers until you get it re-inspected and the problem is gone.
You do not want to take on the same problem the prior owner had and weekly pest control for mice can get real expensive. They set traps in hopes of catching the critters, but mice can avoid the traps and then you have to take other measures. It gets costly and you still have the problem. I have seen homes that were over-run with mice and they are unlivable. If this home is to be a rental you can keep loosing renters if they move in and have mice. If it is your primary residence then you have the problem when they take over your stuff and nest in it.
Push it back at the Realtor and tell her NO SALE.
November 12th, 2011 at 2:42 pm
aside from the extra cost, does anybody else think that concrete floors on crawl spaces is a good idea?
i think they would serve a number of beneficial purposes,, keep out rodents and insects for one…keeping your floor joists dry for another..If i ever built a house i would insist on it being done…any thoughts?? I had problems with rodents actually digging under my foundation and my floor joists are showing some rot…If i had a ton of money i would have concrete poured in my current crawl space..
guess i needed to add that i live in a single single level rambler…thx..
November 12th, 2011 at 4:54 pm
In our unfinished bsmt there r 2 large crawl spaces filled with rocks. Can I reconcile them and who can remove?
I am willing to give someone these rocks in my crawl space in Columbus, Ohio…let me know what can I do with them and, can I sell them? It is maybe over a ton.
November 13th, 2011 at 1:10 am
Do you mean ‘recycle them?’ They are there for a reason. If you pave the crawl spaces you need a good base of which some of these would be part. They permit underground water flows to pass and not flood your basement…?
November 13th, 2011 at 7:37 am
Damp Rid is the product I see the most where I live, and you have to keep an eye on it as the crystals absorb moisture you have to change them out periodically but should work for you.
November 13th, 2011 at 11:54 am
You should absolutely pour a concrete floor in your crawl space. It should be at least 2″ to keep rodents out. It’ll also keep the moisture out and prevent mold.
You can do it yourself. It doesn’t have to be fancy. Buy the concrete from a company that will back a truck up to a door or window. It’s very hard work so you better have 1 or 2 helpers.
November 13th, 2011 at 12:06 pm
why does my puppy always crawl into tight spaces?
Under the bed…
Between my cupboard and my guitar…
Places she can get into but not out. Why does she do this?
November 13th, 2011 at 8:06 pm
I recently purchased a home with a crawl space. And have a question?
On the of the crawl which is dirt there is a white coating, I was wondering if asbestos was ever as a floor covering in crawl spaces. (maybe for insulation purposes)
November 13th, 2011 at 8:51 pm
Is the dark, hard soil in a crawl space good? Does it have lots of moisture?
We’ve put a contract on a house and just found that the soil in crawl space is dark and hard, not like the sand in the crawl spaces of other houses. It does have a vapor barrier. Does this kind of soil tend to be damp all the time? Is it a concern related to moisture control? Would you buy a house with this kind of soil in the crawl space? Thanks for your expertise!!!
November 13th, 2011 at 9:17 pm
Moth balls always work. But don’t put too many or the fumes come up into the home!
November 13th, 2011 at 9:29 pm
Do electricians have to work in crawl spaces?
I’m considering studying to be an electrician, but I’m horrified of spiders and crawl spaces are my nightmare.
November 13th, 2011 at 9:44 pm
The day I got my puppy she wedged herself under the car seat and I had to pull her out by her paws. Puppies are adventurous and like exploring. They think if they can wriggle in somewhere then they can get back out again. Its funny because I have a poster in my room that has a quote nearly the same as your question, it says ‘just about everything is easier to get into then out of’ and there is a puppy stuck in a hole. Its very true too.
November 13th, 2011 at 9:45 pm
If there is a vapor barrier then it should be fine but for buying any home i would have a home inspection done.
November 13th, 2011 at 10:27 pm
No. Its probably mold. Best bet is to lay heavy plastic over the entire area, it will cover whatever you have and serve as a moisture barrier, preventing mold and mildew in and under your home.
November 13th, 2011 at 10:41 pm
YES electricians have to go where the wires are,sometimes under the home other times in the attic
it is all according to the job you take wiring new homes is not that bad but preexisting homes do pose a problem for you.